March 18, 2012
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Salzburg
There are lots of lovely places in Austria, I am sure. We had been to Vienna (very nice), and we live in Linz (bit more “industrial”). I had written down a few cities that would be nice to visit. When our landlord here kindly offered to let us stay in Salzburg in the apartments he rents out there FOR FREE, it propelled Salzburg to the top of the list. He told us, “It’s the most beautiful city in Austria.” And so far, I think he’s exactly right. It would be hard to top Salzburg for its combination of beauty, romance, history, and charm.
The city has about 150,000 people in it and thousands of tourists flock there year round. Many of them come simply because of The Sound of Music, and several sites and tours cater to that. Salzburg’s most famous resident was Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. (Sorry, physicists, Christian Doppler just isn’t the same sort of household name!) He was born and lived here.
I found it very interesting that the city was founded and ruled for hundreds of years by Prince Arch-Bishops. I mentioned before that Austria is a very Catholic country. Salzburg has only been part of Austria since the early 1800s. It’s funny to me to remember that countries in Europe have often changed borders. A map from 100 years ago is quite different!
Anyhow, back to the Prince Archbishops… I am sure some of these Pope-appointed leaders were godly men, but I fear that some saw the title as a political one. Like the one who built a castle for his mistress and their 15 children… Anyhow, in the 700′s or so, the archbishops started coming to the area and built a palace/fort. (We toured it, but that’s a different entry.) The city was ruled by them until 1803 when Napoleon Bonaparte came and took over.
The river is spit into the Old Town (Aldstat) and the New Town by the Salzach River. There are four bridges over the river, and two are for pedestrians only.
The streets are windy and paved with cobblestones. (Rolling four suitcases down them makes quite a noise!)
There are regular roads for the cars, of course, but there are an abundance of cobblestone streets, alleys, and courtyards. The funniest thing to me was trying to find a restaurant. I had a Frommer’s Salzburg Day by Day (HIGHLY recommend that book series!) which listed some restaurants. They’d give the address, and off we’d go, down some dark alley way where there would be a small sign on the wall of an indistinguishable-looking doorway. And that would be the restaurant!
Thankfully, we didn’t accidentally walk into THIS place which was on the street between the two apartments we had!
Our free apartments were gorgeous. We had two since neither one slept five. James and Michael took this one:
And the girls and I had this one:
Right across the street from the girls’ and my apartment was this building. This was the view from my window.
And here’s what that plaque says:
Yes, the guy who wrote Silent Night lived in the house across the street!
But, even better than that, I HAD ICE IN MY DRINK AT BURGER KING! Here is proof. Aren’t you excited for me?
There’s lots more to say about Salzburg! Next up, the Salt Fort!
Comments (6)
Oh yay (on the ice) !!!!
I’m so cracking up. 
I LOVE cobblestone streets. I know that’s weird, but I DO!! I love Charleston, SC and Wilmington NC and the main thing I love about it is the sense of nostalgia and history the horse and carriage evokes with the sound of the clip-clopping against the stones.
Of course, it’s nothing like where you are- surrounded by centuries of history and surrounded by storybook vistas and sites!!!
So tell us, was the Stille Nacht, Heilige Nacht….. inspired by the stillness of Salzburg? Or was the title a prayer and wishful thinking?
I can’t wait for you to tell us Mohr…I mean…MORE.
PS. An arch-bishop had a mistress and 15 children?? Well, not to be sardonic or anything…but I approve of THAT over what some of the bishops and leaders of the Catholic church have been doing and hiding here in the USA. : /
thanks for all the pictures and explanations, helping me learn and appreciate some more of history. i’m so glad you have opportunity to tour these different areas and share the experiences with your family (even if they don’t all appreciate it right now!). and i’m so glad you are sharing it all with your xanga followers….
@flutemom - History is so much fun to me now that I’m older! I didn’t appreciate it at all in high school and college. Thanks for your kind words!
This sounds like so much fun! School in a totally interesting environment.!
Steve has always wanted to take me there. We have very little chance of getting stationed in Germany, but if we get England we’ll be close enough for visits.